“Together, we built this,” says Sufi Zafran, leader of the 12 villages which gave their lands to the Salma Dam, his face aged by a life spent making war in the searing heat and pitiless winters. Invisible, in the mountains above, stands the army of Haji Saeed Wali, a dam site truck driver turned bandit turned warlord, guarding the site from Taliban assault.

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